History in the Making | Waistcoat Construction in the 18th Century
In the 18th century, a gentleman could purchase embroidered waistcoat panels before the waistcoat was even cut or sewn!
On May 12, 1774, Margaret Hunter, a merchant and milliner in Williamsburg, Virginia, advertised an assortment of imported goods in the Virginia Gazette, published by Purdie and Dixon. Among the items offered for sale were “Gentlemens Embroidered Waistcoat Patterns.” Unlike modern sewing patterns, which provide templates for cutting fabric, an 18th-century embroidered waistcoat pattern consisted of fabric that had already been decorated with embroidery arranged specifically for the different parts of a waistcoat. These patterns generally included fabric for the visible front panels of the waistcoat, sometimes accompanied by embroidered pieces for pocket flaps and buttons. The back and lining were usually made separately, often from simpler materials such as linen. After purchasing the embroidered fabric, a gentleman could take it to a tailor, who would cut and assemble the waistcoat according to his measurements. This arrangement allowed elaborate decorative work to be completed before the garment was fitted and constructed.
A Surviving Example from The Metropolitan Museum of Art
An interesting surviving example can be found in the collection of The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.
The museum preserves two silk waistcoat panels, probably made in Britain around 1780. Their embroidery was arranged for the front sections of a gentleman's waistcoat, illustrating how decorative fabric could be prepared before the garment was constructed.
Waistcoat Panels, ca. 1780
View the original waistcoat panels at The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Although these surviving panels are not connected to Margaret Hunter's 1774 advertisement, they provide a valuable example of the type of embroidered textile that could be sold for waistcoat construction.
From Elaborate Embroidery to Simpler Waistcoats
Not every gentleman's waistcoat featured elaborate embroidery. Throughout the 18th century, waistcoats were made from a variety of materials, ranging from richly decorated silks to more simply finished wool and linen. The cream and brown waistcoats pictured alongside the museum example are from our collection at Bethlehem Trading Post. They represent a much more restrained style of waistcoat than the embroidered examples described above.
Where to Find the Original Advertisement
Newspaper:Virginia Gazette (Purdie and Dixon)
Publication date: May 12, 1774
Advertiser: Margaret Hunter, Williamsburg, Virginia
Location: Page 4, third (right-hand) column, in the upper portion of the page.
Look for the advertisement beginning with the words “Just imported, and to be Sold by the Subscriber” and describing an assortment of millinery goods.
The reference to embroidered waistcoat patterns appears toward the end of the merchandise list.
Excerpt from the Advertisement
The following passage includes the waistcoat reference and several of the surrounding items: “Ladies Riding Hats, Childrens Do. with Feathers, Satin Quilts, Gentlemens Embroidered Waistcoat Patterns, White Quilting for Ladies Petticoats, very fine Hyson Tea”
The advertisement ends with the name MARGARET HUNTER.
View page 4 of the original Virginia Gazette, May 12, 1774 Historical Sources and Further Reading
1. Virginia Gazette — May 12, 1774
Original newspaper advertisement published by Purdie and Dixon in Williamsburg, Virginia.
Colonial Williamsburg Digital Library — Original Newspaper
2. The Metropolitan Museum of Art — Waistcoat Panels, ca. 1780
Two surviving silk waistcoat panels, probably British, accession number C.I.66.59.3a, b. The museum identifies the images as public domain.
The Met — Collection Record
3. Colonial Williamsburg — Women Merchants and Milliners in Eighteenth Century Williamsburg
Eleanor Kelley Cabell, 1988. This research report reproduces Margaret Hunter's 1774 advertisement on page 138 and provides a historical definition of waistcoat patterns in its glossary on page 142.
Read the Colonial Williamsburg Research Report
4. Colonial Williamsburg Museum Collection — Embroidered Waistcoat, 1770–1790
A surviving embroidered waistcoat with a cotton back and linen lining, illustrating how decorative and utilitarian textiles could be combined in a finished garment.
View the Waistcoat in Colonial Williamsburg's Collection